Revisiting a Fleurieu Favourite
Going back a few years in what was something of a wave of appreciation for regional gourmet establishments, Fino was the darling of the Fleurieu, lauded by amateur foodies and professional critics alike for its combination of classic cookery and creative cuisine using fresh ingredients from local producers. It was circa 2010, that I was first introduced to this Willunga restaurant, and I too was impressed. Time flies and it was only when, a few Saturdays ago, we were faced with no particular plans for the evening that we decided to return. I really hadn't heard much about Fino in the intervening years since my last visit, and I was keen to see if this little gem was still precious as I'd remembered it.
The restaurant building is an old house which has been renovated and converted into a dining space. What I remembered as being classy and unpretentiously rustic, struck me this time as being a little drab and in need of a face lift. Perhaps on a chilly Autumn evening the drape-less windows gave an air of bareness to the room, or maybe the ability to see directly into the toilet corridor killed some of the romance that an old cottage should engender. Or, possibly, I was put off by the muddy and uninspiring still life paintings that adorned the walls. In any case, a few minor touches to add a little bit of warmth and interest would be welcome.
Luckily, the service that we were greeted with supplied the hospitality that the decor lacked, and, settled in with a glass of Adelaide Hills bubbly, we turned our attention to the menu. The best way to order at Fino is to choose the tasting menu which, for $60 per person, allows you to choose 5 dishes to share. The staff are also happy to give advice should you be in need of a few suggestions. The wine list is relatively short, 'all winners no fillers', and provides a nice selection of local and imported wines, including some less common varieties.
Our first course was the Cold Smoked Muscovy Duck Breast, Mustard Cress and Pomegranate. The mustard cress gave the salad a peppery punch which was nicely counterbalanced by the sweetness of the pomegranate and given interest by various other greens and vegetable elements (the specifics elude me). The downside of such a standout salad was that the duck itself, being mild in smokiness and seasoning, was overshadowed. It had a pleasant tender texture but, unless eaten on its own without the salad, was barely discernible, and in any event, it was not overly impressive.
Happily, my quibbles with the duck were the only real let downs of the evening as the next dish, Schu Am Pork Cheek, Hay Smoked Ham, White Beans and Savoy Cabbage restored my faith in the restaurant and raised expectations for the coming courses. The dish was really a stew and the highlight for me was the broth which was richly flavoured with the pork and bacon, yet escaped being overly unctuous. As we had already finished the complementary bread that we had been given at the start of the meal, the waitress was kind enough to bring us a couple of extra slices to mop up the remaining broth, which we did gladly.
My favourite of the entree dishes was the Mulloway Pie: succulent, mild pieces of fish in a light roux-based white sauce, flavoured with plenty of dill and topped with a crisp puff pastry. I was sold the moment the smell of dill and butter wafted up, and the pie was a pleasure from start to finish.
After the high of the Mulloway Pie, the meal plateaued for me with the Inman Valley Chicken Pot au Feu. It was certainly pleasant enough, tender chicken in a flavoursome broth finished with a dollop of zesty tarragon aioli, but it didn't delight me in the same way that the previous two dishes had done (I should mention, however, that my husband loved the chicken and felt that each course had bettered the one before it). Again, the broth was a highlight, showcasing the chef's attention to the fundamentals.
Finally, we had the Brisket, that evening's special. The slow cooked beef was fall apart tender and stickily caramelised on the outside; excitingly delicious in its simplicity. The five courses, while seemingly an excessive amount of food, are perfectly portioned and as I finished my final mouthful of beef, the prospect of dessert hovered enticingly in my consciousness.
I ordered a Crema Catalana, and this Spanish classic was executed perfectly, with the requisite creamy custard and burnished caramel. I was a little disappointed that we were not offered coffee or more drinks to have with our dessert (coffee was offered afterwards). In fact, a Pedro Ximinez chosen from Fino's extensive list of sherries would have gone down a treat, but as I didn't think of it until I was half way through my dessert, the opportunity was missed.
Overall, the evening at Fino's pleased me greatly. I love sampling a range of dishes, particularly when they are all of such high quality, and at the completion of the meal I was left basking in the glow of happy fullness and red-wine wellbeing. Also, it is a cosy feeling, particularly when dining with a partner or close friends, when you have just shared an entire meal together, rather than merely eating in each other's presence. I look forward to coming back soon, perhaps after the release of the winter menu.
Where?
Fino
8 Hill Street
Willunga, SA, 5172
(08) 85564488
